Alberto Sordi's Macaroni Scene in Rome

“Maccarone, you provoked me and I’ll destroy you!” — few lines of Italian cinema are as famous as Alberto Sordi’s in An American in Rome (1954), directed by Steno. The scene in which Nando Mericoni, a young man from Trastevere obsessed with the myth of America, finally gives in to macaroni after snubbing pasta, has gone down in history. Here is how to find that working-class Rome and its cuisine.

The spirit of the film: authentic Rome

An American in Rome is an affectionate portrait of post-war working-class Rome, made of alleys, trattorias and generous dishes — with Nando Mericoni presented as a young man from Trastevere, the district that embodies the capital’s working-class soul. Exterior filming took place at several real locations, including Via del Portico d’Ottavia and Vicolo Savini. The famous macaroni scene itself, though, was shot in a tavern set built specifically for the film, not a real existing venue: there’s no single “real Nando Mericoni restaurant” to visit, but the neighbourhood and atmosphere it portrays are genuine.

The dishes to order

To pay homage to Nando, you obviously start with macaroni — or rather, with Roman pasta in all its forms: cacio e pepe, amatriciana, carbonara, rigatoni with pajata. Don’t miss the Roman-style artichokes and the oxtail stew.

An itinerary in the historic centre

The area between Campo de’ Fiori, Piazza Navona and the Ghetto — also crossed by the film’s exterior shots — is today the realm of the genuine Roman trattoria. A walk on foot, with tasty stops, is the best way to savour Sordi’s city. Discover all the venues of Rome, including the city’s other real food locations in our Rome film restaurants itinerary, and the film’s stops on An American in Rome.

In short

Reliving An American in Rome means strolling between Trastevere and the Ghetto, sitting down at a genuine Roman trattoria and ordering a plate of pasta — letting the macaroni “provoke” you as it did Nando Mericoni, maybe at one of the real venues in our other Rome itineraries.